Carnaval in Oruro, Bolivia

We had a most deluxe train-ride through stunning red canyons and shockingly empty altiplano from Villazón. But when we arrived in Oruro, it was as if we stepped through the looking glass from a world of peace and calm into the absolute chaos of Carnaval. Already at 7am the city was abuzz with activity. The first band was already playing at the far end of the parade route, getting louder with every minute, men were already drunk, stumbling through the streets and peeing on the walls, and the sidewalk vendors were already touting their wares, “Amiga, compráme” to every tourist that walked by. Little did we know that outside these 2 days of Carnaval, this city remains quiet and civilized since the Oruro we were introduced to was a zoo, complete with bears, llamas, and a variety of devils dancing through the parade.

And even the spectators themselves (including us) were wild, drinking cheap beer from the break of dawn, dancing in the bleachers and engaging in huge water balloon and foam wars with absolutely anyone roaming the streets. Us tourists were especially prized targets in this Guerra de Espuma and we were so pelted with foam that we too eventually got caught up in the frenzy, spending ridiculous sums of money on foam and even stealing cans of it off of unsuspecting children whenever they had the audacity to spray us right in the face. Elizabeth and Kristian became our main line of offense, while Jason and I made up the defensive line, myself specializing in surprise retaliation attacks.

We carried on like this all day and after sunset retired the weapons and retreated to the upper row of bleachers where we made friends with a bunch of baracho Bolivians and Chileans, dancing and drinking way too much pre-mixed rum&coke crap with our amigos until one by one each of us made our way to the hotel room and passed out in bed. And that was just the 1st day…..

Carnaval in Gualeguaychú

I see bikini-clad bathers all around me, lathering themselves with tanning oil, standing ankle deep in the river water under the hot sun, drinking steaming hot mate, plucking in vain at the ubiquitous women´s semi-thong (or v-string) and grooving on the competing boom-boxes from around this riverside beach. Carnaval Fun is in the air and everyone feels it. Today is a day to groove and party and be merry all day and all night long. Carnaval, synonymous with Mardi Gras, (or Fat Tuesday) is when the whole world indulges in a multitude of “carnal” pleasures in anticipation of the following 40 days of self-deprivation for Lent. Of course Carnaval in Gualeguaychú happens every Saturday in February, soooo its doubtful that anyone actually fulfills the 2nd half of the tradition.

The breeze kicks up and reminds me how comfortable I feel, sitting here in the shade, drinking a Brahma beer, next to my honey. I see 5 bicibarcos (pedal-boats) strolling up and down the river. A couple hours ago that was us, as we spent an hour and 10 pesos peddling the river around a little island. Everywhere we went we saw people relaxing and enjoying life, whether it be rowing a boat, sitting on the riverside playing scrabble, lolling in a hammock, or preparing the parilla for an asado. We even crossed wakes with a row boat complete with its own strolling (or floating) minstrel plucking at a guitar and singing while perched on the bow. We even managed to score a cerveza bien fría for the ride from a kiosko we found conveniently located on the bank of the river. Ahh, the ubiquitous kiosko…

After a totally relaxing day, we geared up for the party, watching the sunset while drinking strong Fernet & cokes (the Argentine specialty of mixed drinks) at a bar over the river, dawned our wildest outfits, and even bought agaudy feather tiara on the way into the Sambadromo. And it was a wild night, dancing on the bleachers along with the sexy can-canners parading by below us and bumping hips with all the other baracho party-goers around us. The festivities lasted until almost 4 in the morning when we finally stumbled amongst the herds across town and collapsed in the tent.